vilanculos

i haven't been writing any dates on this "diary"... i wrote on the first post and then completely forgot... maybe unconciously i don't want to see how long it's been... but if i had remembered you'd noticed that between the last post, about Gorongosa and now, there has been a gap, a gap of almost 2 full days.

i'll explain why.
after fixing, or better, having had the flat tire fixed FOR us, by great people, i drove like a mad woman towards Vilanculos... between Gorongosa and Vilanculos there is the AMAZING DESERT of SOFALA... the desert of the SAVE RIVER, which on our way north almost left me out of breath, or at least until i discovered that the little jeep had airco.

the trip went well, no problems with the hotel reservations for on our way up we slept in the same hotel and reserved 3 more nights for a week later. the idea was to sleep 3 nights, 1 day for Vilanculos and 1 day for Bazaruto and Benguerra, after the 3rd night we'd get up very early and head to Maputo.

... i lost 1 day... or maybe i actually won one.

when we got to Vilanculos, already at night because no matter how many times i was told not to drive at night, it's almost impossible to arrive anywhere before 6pm, so, we got there with not a lot of trouble, i knew Vilanculos by heart now because of the other night and it made things easier to get to our own soft bed later. but A.T. was having a hard time with his stomach, he was wishing for a very private bathroom when there were still almost 200kms to arrive, and with that if you add a couple hundred craters in the middle of the road making easier for you to drive on the fields next to it than actually on it, you can imagine that all the shaking wasn't helping him. i tried, but i couldn't go faster than 11okm/h which was already a lot for such bad roads.

i laughed all the way though, A.T. was in pain and i laughed. talk about being punished for laughing at other people's suffering!!!!!
we arrived, A.T. used the toilet... which made me decide i'd go much later, let some air in, and we decided to go out for dinner earlier than usual. i was exhausted and i think he could use some sleep also, like children he can get a bit cranky.
so back to the main hotel restaurant and i ordered a hamburger... well the owners are from Zimbabwe, and i couldn't eat another "prego" or "frango piri-piri", and i ate it with apetite, very hungry...

it didn't take even 10minutes, i was in pain... my aunt Nelinha called me then asking the latest news, made fun of me eating a hamburger in Mozambique and wished me a good stay in Vilanculos... she was the last to talk to me before everything started going wrong. the pain in my belly reminded me of those awful period cramps i used to have before my surgery, and my head starting pounding worse than my daily migraines. i knew A.T. would've like to stay out a bit more, but my head starting spinning and i couldn't focused anymore.

back in out little cabin i couldn't figure out what was wrong so i took some digestive medicine, ENO, and hope i'd just burp this pain away. fat chance.
i had to lay down, hoping that it wouldn't make it worse, i started sweating and my head was pounding like there was a live concert of a bad band inside it.

sleep caught up with me after i think 30minutes, and i don't even remember A.T. kissing me goodnight, which probably also means he didn't but i hope he did. it didn't last long... i was awake at 00:00... ah ya, you don't know that i fell asleep at around 21:30... too early. anyway, at 00:00 i was turning and turning in the bed trying not to cry with so much pain... A.T. also woke up, upset telling me to just go sleep in the bathroom... i understand, i actually woke him up on purpose, i hate being awake by myself in the middle of night (don't tell him because he still thinks he wakes up by himself and voilá i just happen to be awake also), so i decided to swallow another spoon full of ENO, if i could just BURP!!!!!!!

in our room there were no spoons, vanished, so i dumped a "bit" of powder in a bottle of water, it was then i noticed the water i was drinking was the one i stole from the last hotel in Gorongosa, actually it was free but i still didn't ask if i could take it, it's name was NAMAACHA, so that's why there was no water in the waterfalls!!! i get it!
anyway... i drank that disgusting thing, and stayed for a few moments staring at the mirror praying that i would be ok in 5 seconds...
i burped...
i went back to bed.

01:30 - i woke up again with the urge of going to the bathroom, so i did... i was still walking ok. as i washed my hands and put some cold water on my face... my legs started shaking, i couldn't stand up anymore and i couldn't stop sweating cold sweats... i fell to the ground.
i don't recall exactly how long i was there, but i knew i was talking, i think i only said 3 words, "A.T." or "daddy" or "mommy", it was strange because i couldn't really understand what i was supposed to do to get up or to do anything... eventually he came in, he has this cappacity to just stand there as if it's all too wierd, so i know for sure that i got up on my own.

i also was able to walk back to bed, but i just couldn't stay put.
i had no strengh to fight the pain in my stomach and now the awful taste i had in my mouth...

4:00: i opened my eyes, stared at the ceiling for a second, decided to get up again and try again to go to the bathroom but stay up this time. no way jose!
i didn't even finish thinking of a strategy, that i was already on my side with everything i had eaten the previous day come out of me like a fountain. i even ran out of breath. i couldn't coordinate the vomit with my breathing so i started having an ashma attack and freaking out, trying to scream A.T.'s name and hoping he'd help me... tears even started coming out of my eyes, and in the meantime i was loosing my forces, i couldn't feel the arm that was holding me and my head from falling right in the middle of all that gooey stuff.

"go to the bathroom!" he shouted.
"i can't, i can't..."
so he helped... but as soon as i sat down on the ground with my head stuck in the toilet, he was gone. i couldn't figure out why.

he was so disgusted, that he went outside of the cabin, sat down on the porch and only came in almost 1hour later when i had thrown everything out of me and more, cleaned the bathroom, and cleaned the floor in our room, washed the mosquitonet hanging above the bed (they are so long that of course it was impossible not to get it dirty, and only when i told him everything was cleaned he was able to walk in... he said "i'm sorry"... but to this day i have never felt so shocked. no matter how gross it could've been i would've never left him alone and i felt ashamed for having been sick.

of course, at that moment i only wanted to get back to sleep, try to at least arrive to the morning and hope that i could talk to someone who would know a great medicine to not let it happen again. and again i was wrong, i slept until 9:00, i think in total i slept 5hours and badly, i woke up with a fever and the right side of my boby completely numb. my neck was so sore and my head about to explode. there was no way i was getting out of bed.

malaria?

everyone who called me that day got the same report i just gave you, every detail because someone had to give me a clue of what was happening, i needed to get up so A.T. and i could go to the islands, it was my birthday present to him, but like this i just couldn't. i think i cried all day, when he wasn't looking i cried because i felt useless and i felt that i was stopping him from doing whatever he felt like. he can't drive, and doesn't want to learn how to, so basically means he was stuck with me... thankfully he went out to the beach for the afternoon, which was just 3m from our front door, while the owner of our lodge stayed with me, gave me cookies, gasless coca-cola, tee, water and some biscuits. and also a few drugs!

i couldn't wait any longer, called a few people, even without a voice and with all my boby aching i called a few people from Mozambique and Portugal and got a contact of a doctor here in Vilanculos, he was not working anymore and i'd have to wait for the morning to get a proper Malaria test.
Malaria????!!!! really?
oh goodness, that would mean that i'd have to miss out going to the islands, that A.T. was going to stay here bored one more day... i confessed to the owner of the lodge that i was feeling like crap that he couldn'te go to the islands, i didn't care anymore, all i wanted was to get back to Maputo and be close to people i know.
she was kind enought to offer to drive me to the hospital in Vilanculos the next morning, and pick me up afterwards. she also offered me a free night and she put our names in a list of the passengers of a boat that would be heading out to Bazaruto the day after.
basically she allowed me to still give A.T. his birthday gift, and allowed him not to regret this whole trip.

this meant that we stayed 4 night in Vilanculos. 1 day i was in bed all day, vomiting and not able to move anything on my right side. 1 day to visit what they call a hospital, having a blood test in the middle of dozens of people, they have beautiful babies by the way, you should've seen the hospital... gosh, there are things you just can't get them to understand... but then again, why worry about nurses who wash the patient bedsheets on the ground when they're all dying of AIDS? the day of the hospital visit, it was funny now that i think about it, i tried walking to the beach and getting a bit of sun, tried to explain to everyone that it hadn't been malaria but probably the water NAMAACHA which had been declared filthy for human beings, but i ended up drinking 3 litters of it! if felt good to go outside though... and seeing for the first that amazing blue people talk about when they visit paradises.

i found it to be beautiful... and i found out that the reason A.T. was gone for so long the day i stayed in bed, was because he had found already a new friend... another dog!

this time, i think his promise to take his driver's license is for real...