machipanda

Before lifting off from Lisbon to Maputo, I warned Aldo and hugged him, I told him he'd have to be patience with me... or at least for what could be me in such an important place. You don't control your emotions, and I knew somewhere in this endless country I would shead a tear.
I guess I imagined it would be in the great beaches of Tofinho, or the 1920's house in Beira, probably not Maputo, but maybe even Manica with the big pool... no. I was wrong, and looking back, Machipanda was the place it had to happen.

This was the town that made me cry. (great for a book title)

We were driven there by this Canadian colonist wanna-be, a funny man, wearing socks 'till his knees, with the weirdest accent I've heard, A.T. only smiled, sometimes worried he's be saying "sim" when he should've said "não senhor". This.... oh, I forgot his name... hmmm, I hope it comes back to me, anyway he drove us there in his wear-out jeep, one of those with the continuous seat in front and an open back... well, dargeling, girls, if you ever sit in a jeep such as this one, remember: THE SHIFTS ARE IN THE MIDDLE! yup, I sat in the middle, thinking it'd be cool to sit there... not when the driver needs to put the 4th shift!!!!!! really, it's really scary to have someone suddenly going with their elbow straight to your... well, you know. Actually on the way back, A.T. sat there... he says boys shouldn't either!!!!

Mr. What's-the-name drove us there, asked by the guy who thought he's in charge, to give me a tour of what I could find once belonged to my past. As you drive in this town you literally see the entrance and the exit, you see it's limits, and you understand how small it is.
It did remind me of my mother's parents' town in Portugal, Soalheira, close to Fundão in the Serra da Gardunha (i think). Around Machipanda there are amazing big hills, just around the corner is Zimbabué, it looks peaceful from here...
I think I was able to count 3 streets... a few roads, about 20 houses, and the thing they're so proud of, the train station. Now, this station was once the connection between Zimbabué (Rodésia) and the Indian Ocean, it made it possible for the english merchandise to reach the port of Beira and from there the ports of the world. Not bad for such a tiny town.

My mother was born in Beira, just like her sister, but they lived here all their childhood... as you can see, I did this backwards. This is where I thought she lived with lions, and elephants and snakes... but all I saw were a few fat chickens and a bunch of scary-cat monkeys. Really, monkeys! again...

I guess, until you see where they live, and where they grew up, maybe the school where they did all sorts of bad things, and where they learned to read, the pool where they swam, the beach where they dreamed, the tree where they kissed or the road they had an accident, all you can do is smile, take the photo and tell them "it's still here mom, really your elementary school desk is still here!"

...but when you walk into a place, a place such as the "11th November" bar that my grandpa built and served in as his hobby giving free drinks to my mom's friends (not to the boyfriends) when they visit. the bar my granpa gave to a man when he decided to run away from what would be a very long war and revolution. He gave that man his bar, all the papers, gave him a transfer of ownership, gave him money and told him to try to make his living on it.

what happens when you walk in a place like this and recognize from the pictures the bar, the dark wood bar with the high stools and see this small man with light gray eyes looking at you... behind him 20 bottles of whisky... there was nothing I could do but say "bom dia, I'm the grandaughter of Mateus Paulo Duarte"

"ah menina, a sua mãe esteve cá no dia 17 de fevereiro de 2004. lembro-me muito bem. sabe devia dizer ao seu avô para cá vir. eu queria que ele visse que tenho tomado conta disto."
("ah, your mother was here on the 17th of february of 2004. I remember it well. You should tell your grandfather to come here, I'd like him to see how well I've taken of this bar.")

of course you can't say these things to me and not think it wouldn't touch deep in my heart... because if you did, you don't know me. I cried... not just because it was a surprise to hear this man speak of my grandfather not knowing he has been dead for 12 years... but because I didn't even expect to see anyone on this trip who'd speak of him... he spoke like grandpa Mateus would be there in 5 minutes... he even added "you should also tell him that we have save all these years the trees he planted.."

ok stop... it hurts now. I cried in front of him, and in front of the kids who were there, because I missed him so much right then and there, I remembered him, and for a few minutes outside of that bar and looking out at his lovely cute small house I could hear him calling me, I could almost smell him. I actually think he was watching me. Hard to explain, but almost as if everyone, my mom, aunt and grandparents somehow found a way to make me really realise that all of this was real. I guess I hadn't understood how much this could affect me... but it did.

You can never doubt the importance, and the power of small towns... Machipanda is tiny, has a long name, it's also my mother's email address, but it's the biggest place in my heart in all of this travelling.

The canadian also drove us to Penhalonga... the most secretly kept botanical garden. trees longer than the distance from earth to heaven. Green leafs greener than mother nature. Air as pure as I never thought possible... I even choked with it... city girl!

We didn't stay long, almost as if there was a timer there telling us to leave so that the secret could still be kept within those hills and trees... it's a pity, but then again, it's a secret I know about now.
I couldn't stay long so I asked to drive us back to Manica where we were sleeping, Chimoio, ex-Vila Pery was our next pit-stop, I had to go in search of my mother's Boarding School, ah ok... now let's go.
We were heading towards our first non-family-related visit, the National Park of Gorongosa, we were about to see the real savanah, or we hoped.
They tell you knot to drive at night, but it was during that night, actually at 17:25, pitch black already, that I reached my 2000kms.

and I'm still alive... my butt though isn't.

Brian... that's his name!!!!